ORIGINAL WALKS, HIKES & TREKS IN CRETE 
HIKES TO THE HEART OF THE LEFKA ORI - High Desert escapades
In high summer, as the heat on the coast is intense, it is always possible for the more adventurous to get a breath of fresh, pure, mountain air (a good 15° cooler!), just above the hustle and bustle of the sea side resorts… Escaping to the heart of the White Mountains, we will walk on old trails made by the shepherds and their animals through very wild and isolated areas offering amazing contrasts between lunar, arid landscape known as „High Desert“ and small green valleys dotted with alpine flowers, the „Madares“, where flocks of sheep and goats are taken up to graze in the summer months.
The two days escapades (Tours A and B) to the „Madares“ will make you discover the world of the last few remaining proud Sfakian shepherds and their traditional sheep breeding and cheese making in their „Mitatos“, dry stone dome shaped huts.
Tour C is designed for less experienced walkers or people who dispose of only one day.
TOUR A:
PACHNES AND THE MADARES
(departure from SFAKIA, ANOPOLI or AGIOS IOANNIS)
Day 1: Departure from Hora Sfakion, Anopoli or Agios Ioannis with a 4x4 vehicle that will take us to the end of a dirt track at the altitude of 2000 meters, in the middle of the „High Desert“. We will start there the ascension of Pachnes (2453m), the highest summit of the Lefka Ori …
After taking time to enjoy the stupendous views, we will go down the northern side of the mountain and reach a Mitato where we will have the opportunity to see how the shepherds make their delicious „graviera“ cheese. Night in the hut, after a traditional shepherds meal (about 5 hours walk)
Day 2: After having witnessed the morning milking of the ewes, and eaten a hearty breakfast we will return to Anopoli, taking the old transhumance path through desertic landscapes at first, then down a wide gorge with ancient cypresses (about 6 hours walk).
It is possible to do a slightly more challenging variation to this tour, starting from Agios Ioannis on day 1: a vehicle takes us up to the plateau of Kroussia, we walk around the base of the Zaranokefala above the Eligias gorge on a mule track offering incredible views on the sea, (1900 m below us!) we then cross a moon-like landscape before ascending the south side of Pachnes, a longer tour, but surely the most beautiful walk in the White Mountains (about 8 hours walk to reach the Mitato)
TOUR B:
TREK THROUGH THE WHITE MOUNTAINS - CROSSING THE LEFKA ORI
(including Pachnes summit)
(departure from OMALOS or KALLERGI - arrival in ANOPOLI or AGIOS IOANNIS)
Day 1: Early morning departure from the Omalos plateau or the Kallergi refuge … panoramic views over the Samaria gorge and the Lefka Ori. We then climb the summit of Melindaou (2300m) from where we can admire a large stretch of the north coast, from the Rodhopou and Gramvoussa peninsulas, to Chania. As we go down the mountain, we cross a few small green valleys, until we reach the Mitato where we are welcome to spend the night. A traditional shepherd´s meal will be prepared for us (about 6 hours walk).
Day 2: After having witnessed the morning milking of the ewes and eaten a hearty breakfast, our goal will be the summit of Pachnes (2453m), after taking time to enjoy the view, we will go down to the spring of Roussies and reach the end of a dirt track from where we are driven by a 4x4 vehicle down to the village of Anopoli (About 5 hours walk; possibility also to walk down to Anopoli on the old transhumance path (about 2-3 hours walk).
Another more challenging variation to this tour can be, on day 2, to go down the southern slope of Pachnes, towards Zaranokefala, then follow the panoramic old footpath above the Eligias gorge to the plateau of Kroussia and end the tour in Agios Ioannis (day 1 of the “madares tour“ the other way round)
Level of fitness:
A good level of fitness is required for both tours. You do not need mountaineering skills as there are no dangerous passages, but you need a bit of endurance and experience on mountainous terrain.
Cost for tours A and B: 95€ per person - with a minimum of 4 participants (The price can go down if you are a larger group of people), including transport, food, night in the mitato and guiding by a licensed guide, specialist of the area.
TOUR C:
SUMMIT OF PACHNES
(departure from SFAKIA, ANOPOLI or AGIOS IOANNIS)
An easy one day tour giving the opportunity to less experimented walkers to discover this totally unspoiled and unique area in the world, and climb to the top of the Lefka Ori´s summit: Pachnes (2453m). Starting from the village of Anopoli, a 20 km dirt road winds up towards the centre of the Lefka Ori, first going through a forest of pines, holm oaks and ancient cypress trees before reaching the tree line and entering the area known as „High desert“. The 4x4 vehicle leaves us where the road ends, at the altitude of 1950m, and will be waiting for us while we walk up to the summit and back, in about 3 hours on an easy path ...
Level of fitness:
No difficulty if you have a minimum of walking experience
What to take with you:
Costs for Tour C: 55€ per person - with a minimum of 3 participants - including transport and guiding by a licensed guide, specialist of the area.
© 2011 Anne Deckel